Yay, I have a brand new jacket! I can’t tell you how much this color makes me happy. Who says all New Yorkers wear black? The second I saw this pretty blue stretch cotton on the shelf at Mood this summer I knew it was meant to be a Minoru Jacket by Sewaholic Patterns.
At 60″ wide, I bought 2 yards of it and had some left over after cutting out all the pieces. I also used about 2 yards of 45″ wide navy and white polka-dot stretch cotton from my stash for the lining (with navy Bemberg rayon for the sleeve lining – helps with sliding the jacket on and off!). The metal Riri brand zippers are from Pacific Trimming in the Garment District.
How It Worked Out Size-Wise
This time I decided to be brave – or crazy – and go forth without sewing a muslin first. It helped that Lladybird Lauren provided her measurements for her second Minoru, which are fairly comparable to mine. She went with a size 0 and liked the fit, but juuuust to be safe I added 1″ seam allowances instead of the standard 5/8″ at the side seams. I ended up sewing the jacket together with this added width, which made it larger than the 0 but slightly smaller than a size 4, and I’m glad I did. I think a straight size 0 would’ve been small!
And while overall I’m happy with the fit, I think I’ll cut a straight size 4 if I make this jacket again for winter since I’ll be wearing thicker layers underneath. Yes, I’m already envisioning this jacket in a warmer fabric for even cooler days – it’s so nice to have a casual yet stylish jacket like this. The elastic at the waist is genius, too. Tasia is a star!
Paired with my Renfrew top!
Thoughts on Working with Stretch Cotton
Both the outer fabric and lining have some stretch to them, and while things worked well overall I did learn some things when sewing across the stretchiest parts. While installing the zipper to the collar the fabric gradually stretched. I figured out a work-around, but a future solution? Interface the part of the collar around the zipper (the whole collar could be interfaced but I like the softer look without it). I noticed the interfaced zipper plackets didn’t stretch at all. Lesson learned!
Changes I Made
- Added inseam pockets using my lining fabric and the Colette Beignet pocket piece. These were sewn in at 3/8″ before joining the jacket’s side seams together at 5/8″. I can’t have a jacket without pockets!
- Made the interior pockets out of the lining fabric because I prefer the look. Also left off the velcro and kept the pockets unfastened. The “everyone’s looking at me while I’m trying to quietly get something out of my pocket” noise that Velcro makes was something I wanted to avoid.
- The seam connecting the hood to the collar is pressed up into the collar, which leaves a lot of raw seams exposed as visualized in Karen’s post. After her warning, I finished all the collar seams. As I was putting the jacket together I realized I could simply press the hood/collar seam down towards the body of the jacket so that, once the jacket is finished, the seam is hidden between the layers. Simple fix and no seams showing when you zip open the collar! (Still good to finish all collar seams since the other sides of it are exposed, though not visible when the hood is untucked.)
- I lined the hood – I like the hint of polka dots! I followed Tasia’s tip at the end of this sew-along post.
- As Karen mentioned in the above post, the zipper window at the collar is too big for the recommended 18″ long zipper. The window as drafted measures 19″ so I made the adjustment.
- Machine-stitched the sleeve lining hem to the outer sleeve using Tasia’s sew-along tip.
Oops, I’m cut off! But at least you see how the jacket looks with my outfit.
Jawa from Star Wars, anyone?
For Next Time:
- Cut a straight size 4
- Do not trim those seam allowances at the bottom of the zipper plackets! I did this on my winter coat too, and it makes it a little difficult to slip-stitch the facing down while trying to prevent the fraying fabric from popping out. Just trim to where you stop top-stitching and all will be well.
- Since the zipper opening at the collar is 19″ wide I’ll buy a 20″ zipper next time instead of the recommended 18″.
I’m so very pleased with this one! I’ve been looking for a casual jacket so this has filled a big hole in my wardrobe. All I seem to have are button-down coats so having a zippered option is great. The fabric is a little thick so it makes the collar bulky when tucked in, but I figured that going in and didn’t mind it since, knowing myself, I will always leave the hood out. More fun that way to show off those polka dots!
Any questions? Have you sewn this jacket? See you in October!